Paris - Prologue Day/ Final stage
France's capital has it all - awesome museums, excellent dining and truly memorable monuments.
Plat du jour: Enjoy a classic steak-frites at Chartier (7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre; 01 46 70 86 29; www.restaurant-chartier.com). This no-nonsense traditional French canteen-restaurant is often crowded but a great experience and cheap too.
Petit Detour: Climb the Eiffel tower if you've a head for heights and visit the splendid Musée d'Orsay and the Louvre if you're a museum lover. Freewheel around the streets up by the Sacré Coeur and stop for espresso and croissants at one of the cafés for that classic Parisian moment.
Aire de Repos: The room with the nicest view in Paris? Some would say it's No. 70 at the Parc St Severin Hotel (22 Rue de la Parcheminerie; 01 43 54 32 17). This beautiful penthouse suite is encircled by a private terrace affording views across the rooftops in all directions.

Meaux -Stage One - Sunday July 6th
The pretty county town of Meaux is on the banks of the Marne river.
Plat du jour: If you thought Brie was a bit meek and mild, try the real thing. The locals call their Appelation Controllée brie 'King of Cheeses and Prince of Deserts'. If the day's exertions have given you a bigger appetite, tuck into a steak (rare of course) accompanied by the town's other speciality - full-grain mustard.
Petit Détour: Freewheel around the old quarter enjoying the 12th century cathedral and old town houses. Meaux is also only a half-hour from Disneyland Paris if you're looking for some more action-packed rides.
Aire de Repos: Make a start up the Marne valley towards the next stage stop of Sedan and stop at the Hostellerie Le Gonfalon in pretty Germigny-L'Eveque (01 64 33 16 05) set in a lovely wooded position on the banks of the river.

Sedan - Stage Two - Monday July 7th
Sedan is surrounded by the dense forest of the Ardenne.
Plat du jour: Chocoholics will feel at home here - a local speciality is Rocaillons - crunchy chocolate pebbles. If you fancy a crunch of a different kind - snails are also a delicacy.
Petit Detour: Sedan's 14th century fortress is the largest and best preserved of its kind in Europe. The town was famous for carpet-making and its old weavers' district is also well worth a visit.
Aire de Repos: If visiting the fortress makes you fancy a stately home of your own, stay at the 19th century Chateau Faucon a few miles down the Autoroute near Donchery. (www.faucon.fr; +33 3 24 52 10 01) Learn to communicate with the locals by doing one of the chateau's French language courses.

Charleville Mézières - Stage Three - Tuesday July 8th
The poet Arthur Rimbaud was born here. He ran away four times as a child he disliked the place so much, but visitors usually find it charming.
Plat du jour: The forests of the Ardennes provide plenty of hunting for wild boar and game. Try a local speciality, game cooked in wild juniper jus at La Cote a l'Os. (11 Cours Aristide-Briand; Tel: 03 24 33 23 60)
Petit Detour: Charleville is a major centre for puppetry. Watch a free puppet show at the Institut de la Marionette (Tel: 03 24 33 72 50) (no strings attached) and see some of the amazing puppets.
Aire de Repos: Simple, but smart the Relais du Square (03 24 33 38 76) is well positioned in the centre of the town for hitting the saddle early next day.

Saint Dizier - Stages Three and Four - Tuesday July 8th, Wednesday July 9th
This town on the bank of the river Marne is famous for its ornate metalwork.
Plat du Jour: St Dizier's speciality is a biscuit called a Bragardise. It's flavoured with coconut and perfect for accompanying a glass of local champagne or for munching en route.
Petit Detour: Hector Guimard's Art Nouveau metalwork adorns lamp posts, balconies and window sills around the town. Chain your bike to the railings at the tourist office and pick up a brochure for a short walking tour (4, Avenue de Belle Forêt: 03.25.05.31.84).
Aire de Repos: It's a bit of a ride, but Les Agapes et la Masion Forte in Revigny sur Ornain (6 Place Henriot du Coudray; 03 29 70 56 00) is a lovely 17th century Michelin-starred restaurant with seven en-suite rooms. Booking recommended.

Troyes - Stage Five - Thursday July 10th
The ancient capital of the Champagne region, Troyes is a gem. Its crooked half-timbered mansions date back to the Middle Ages.
Plat du jour: Food here is not for the faint-hearted. Troyes is famous for andouillette (be brave - it's sausages made from pigs' intestines.) Other delicacies include smoked sheep's tongues. Le Valentino at 35 Rue Palliot-de-Montabert (Tel: 03 25 73 14 14) offers in-season local fare beautifully cooked and presented.
Petit Detour: If you fancy splashing out on a new yellow jersey, Troyes is the place for designer clothes at bargain prices. Visit Espace Begrand and rues Emile Zola and des Bas Trevois or head out of town to the many factory outlets. (www.marquesavenue.com)
Aire de Repos: Le Champ des Oiseaux (20 Rue Linard Gonthier; Tel: 03 25 80 58 50) is housed in one of those beautiful old timber-framed buildings.

Nevers - Stage Six - Friday July 11th
Situated where the Loire and Nièvre rivers meet, this old city is the seat of the ancient Gallic Dukes of Nevers.
Plat du jour: Nevers offers perfect food for pedal-pumpers. It's the birthplace of the world's best beef breed - the mighty Charolais.
Detours: Nevers is a place of religious pilgrimage. The Saint-Gildard convent houses the mausoleum of Saint-Bernadette of Lourdes. This nun's body has been miraculously conserved since 1879. (Without the use of performance-enhancing substances.) If you fancy notching up a gear, visit the Magny Cours racing circuit - home to the French F1 Grand Prix. (03.86.21.80.00; www.magnyf1.com)
Aire de Repos: A short sprint up the road in Oulon is the turreted old Ferme-Auberge du Vieux Chateau (Tel: 03 86 68 06 77). Simple bedrooms in an old castle surrounded by rolling countryside. Stuff some of their homemade foie gras into your saddlebag for lunch next day.

Lyon - Stage Seven - Saturday July 12th
France's second city is a food lover's dream - the old town's streets are packed with great eateries. Sausages of every variety, tangy goat's milk cheeses, fish and great wine - need we say more?
Plat du jour: A traditional Lyonnais eating establishment is known as a bouchon derived from the French for cork. Café des Federations (8 rue du Major Martin; Tel: 04 78 28 26 00) is a classic example - hearty local food, checked table-clothes, buzzing atmosphere.
Detours: The city is famous for textiles. Pedal over to the excellent Musée des Tissus (Rue de la Charité) to learn about the trade and see some exquisite examples.
Aire de Repos: La Tour Rose (22 Rue du Boeuf; Tel: 04 78 37 25 90) is owned by Michelin-starred chef Philippe Chavent. The spectacular bedrooms illustrate different periods of the city's silk industry and the innovative, excellent food is served in a 13th century chapel.

Morzine - Stage Seven - Saturday July 7th
A pretty Alpine town in the Portes du Soleil ski area.
Plat du Jour: Fondues are a Savoyard speciality - try and track down a Berthoud - a special fondue made with local cow's milk cheese.
Detours: If being in a ski-resort makes you yearn for the piste try the crazy summer alternative - mountainboarding involves careering down the ski-slopes on a large-wheeled skateboard. (MontainBoard; Avenue de Joux Plane; 04 50 79 07 97)
Aire de Repos: This is Alpine chalet country - just one of the many is Chalet le Philibert which offers rustic charm coupled with a nice pool, restaurants and a busy bar. (www.chalet-philibert.com; 04 50 79 25 18)

Sallanches - Stage Eight - July 13th
Victor Hugo described this lovely alpine town as 'pure theatre'.
Plat du Jour: Dine at altitude at a skiing lodge. Take the Châble-Perthuis ski lift up to the Chalet des Bachais and enjoy splendid mountain vistas while you have lunch. Booking advisable (04.50.93.36.06)
Detours: Stay in the saddle for a guided tour à velo, following the course of the crystal waters of the Avre river. Details from the tourist office. (31 Quai de L'Hotel de Ville; 04 50 58 04 25)
Aire de Repos: The attractive Hotel Les Pres Du Rosay (285 Route De Rosay; 04 89 88 40 05; ) has 15 rooms in a chalet-style building and a nice restaurant too.

L'Alpe d'Huez - Stage Eight - July 13th
Plat du Jour: After all that hard climbing you'll need something filling. Try a plateful of diots - local pork sausages flavoured with nutmeg and garlic.
Detours: Skiing in mid-summer surely not? Here on the high-altitude glacier you can ski for real until July 26th!
Aire de Repos: Avoid the hordes in Alpe d'Huez and freewheel down to Bourg D'Oisans - tomorrow's start point. Stay at the cyclist-friendly Hotel le Florentin (Rue Thiers; 04 76 80 01 61) which offers covered bike parking, guided cycle rides and pleasant 2-star accommodation.

Gap - Stage Nine - July 14th Plat du Jour: A local speciality is 'Oreilles d'Ane' (donkey's ears). Don't worry, it's actually a gratin of pasta with spinach and cheese. Try Le Patalain (2 Place Ladoucette; 04 92 52 30 83) for lip-smacking local cuisine.
Petit Detour: Gap prides itself on its outdoor lifestyle and mountain air. Ask at the tourist office for the Balcons du Gapencais guide to walking and cycling circuits. (12, rue Faure Du Serre; 04 92 52 56 56)
Aire de Repos: Make a start for Marseille and rack your bike at La Bonne Etape in Chateau-Arnoux about 10 miles south of Sisteron. A Michelin-starred restaurant with luxurious rooms. (Chemin du Lac; 04 92 64 00 09; www.bonneetape.com)

Marseille - Stage Ten - July 15th
A bustling no-nonsense city given added impetus by its large immigrant population.
Plat du jour: The city's signature dish is a bit of a melange too. Bouillabaisse is a saffron and garlic flavoured fish soup. Rascasse or scorpion fish is just one of the fishy flavours. Order in advance and sit beside the lapping waves in the calm of Le Lunch (Calanque de Sormiou; Tel: 04 91 25 05 37) away from the big city.
Petit Detour: Leave dry land and catch a boat from the Quai de Belges on the Vieux Port to the tiny fortress island of If. Its 16th century castle and cells where prisoners were locked up is horribly well preserved and the views back towards Marseille are fantastic.
Aire de Repos: Head out of town for the lovely rustic Relais de la Magdeleine in Gemenos (Tel: 04 42 32 20 16; www.relais-magdeleine.com). A friendly, family-run place, it's well worth the detour.

Narbonne - Stage Eleven - July 17th
This pleasant provincial town is dominated by its enormous Gothic cathedral.
Plat du jour: This close to the sea it has to be seafood. Try some local moules at La Petite Cour (bd Gambetta; 04 68 90 48 03).
Petit Detours: The lovely Abbey de Fontfroide and its pretty gardens, tucked into a fold of cypress -clad hillsides makes an attractive excursion. And Carcasonne en route with the Tour to Toulouse tomorrow is a fabulous old fortress town well worth getting off the bike for.
Aire de Repos: Stay at La Dorade (44 Rue Jean-Jaures; 04 68 32 01 00) - set in a spectacular old building which dates back to 1648.

Toulouse - Stage 11 - July 17th
With its beautiful historic centre and buzzing high-tech industries, Toulouse is one of France's most vibrant cities.
Plat du Jour: Toulouse's most famous dishes are all about ducks and geese. Sample the fine patés and foies gras or for more filling fare try a cassoulet the regional stew of pork, beans and goose fat. La Bohème (3 Rue Lafayette; Tel: 05 61 23 24 18) offers hearty regional dishes in the middle of the city.
Petit Detours: The city is home to both space and air industries. The Cité de l'Espace will keep kids and adults amused for hours with its space ships and interactive displays (www.cite-espace.com) whilst the Aerospatiale hangers - where Airbus planes are assembled can be visited if booked in advance (Tel: 05 61 18 06 01).
Aire de Repos: Splurge a little and stay where President Chirac stays when he's in town - The Grand Hotel de l'Opera is the elegant dame of Toulouse's hotels. (1 Place du Capitole; 05 61 21 82 66; www.grand-hotel-opera.com)

Gaillac - Stage Twelve - Friday 18th July
This tiny town of ancient houses and fountain-splashed squares is in one of France's finest wine regions.
Starter's Orders: Gaillac has an Appelation Controlée all to itself. Most sought-after is the fresh sharp white but there's action-packed red, fruity rosé and sparkling varieties too. A great place to try them is Les Sarments, 27 Rue Cabrol (Tel: 05 63 57 62 61). Housed in a renovated 14th century winery this classic local French restaurant has a vast wine list.
Detours: Dégustation - or trying the wine - is the obvious activity to undertake here. Take a ride along one of the three Routes des Vins to sample a few at the cellars. Log on to www.vins-gaillac.com for details. Just don't drink and ride!
Aire de Repos: Set in rolling, wooded private gardens, Hotel La Verrerie (1, Rue de l'Egalité; Tel: 05.63.57.32.77) - is the perfect place to shift down a gear.

Cap Decouverte - Stage 12 - July 18th
At the finish of today's time trial, Cap Decouverte is a huge new activity complex and holiday village built on the site of an old coal mine. Concerts, shows, water-sports, dry-slope skiing and a mining museum - there's fun for all the family! (08 25 08 12 34; www.capdecouverte.com)

Plateau de Bonascre - Stage 13 - July 19th
The first big climb of the Pyrenees stages brings you into one of France's most impressive hiking areas. The famous GR10 hiking trail makes its 500-mile journey from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean through some of the world's most stunning natural scenery and you can walk parts of it from several of the Tour stages. Loudenvielle and Luz are the easiest.

St Girons - Stage 14 - July 20th
A sleepy old town with plenty of atmosphere. Don't ride on the pavements - they're made of a rather unusual pink marble.
Plat du Jour: Make for La Clariere (Ave de la Resistance; Tel: 05 61 66 66 66) for one of the most individual and unusual meals you'll eat anywhere. Try the whole shoulder of Pyrenean lamb if you're in tandem with someone else who's hungry.
Petit Detour: Fancy a spot of trout fishing? Ask at the tourist office about places and permits. (Place Alphonse Sentein; 05 61 96 26 60)
Aire de Repos: The Hotel Eychenne is an atmospheric old town hotel - full of oak beams and ancient antiques. (8 av Paul-Laffont; 05 61 04 04 50; www.ariege.com/hotel-eychenne)

Luz Ardiden - Stage 15 - July 21st
Plat du Jour: If you backpedal a little to Luz Saint Saveur you can enjoy spectacular views from the terrace of the Hôtel de Londres (8 Rue du Pont de Luz; 05 62 92 80 09) whilst you sample some local river trout. (Booking recommended)
Petit Detours: For a more gentle introduction to the might of the Pyrenees do a guided walk round the spectacular Cirques of Gavarnie or Troumouse finishing for a hot soak in Luz Saint Saveur which is a spa town. (05.62.92.30.31; www.luz.org)
Aire de Repos: If your handlebars are drooping a bit, go for the full body revitalisation treatment at Luz St Saveur. The four day residential courses include massages, hot rubs, baths and essential oils. (Contact details as above)

Pau - Stage 16 - July 23rd
You should feel at home here. Pau is often referred to as the most British of French towns. The Brits came for its pleasant climate in the 19th century and introduced the first 18-hole golf course in continental Europe.
Plat du Jour: For classic French fare park up at Le Berry (4 Rue Gachet; Tel: 05 59 27 42 95) - an old fashioned family-run brasserie where you'll have to wait for a table so you'll have time to watch the bustle and fun as diners come and go.
Petit Detour: Grottes de Betharram at St Pe de Bigorre on the D938 towards Lourdes is a spectacular series of underground caves jagged with stalactites and stalagmites. The tour includes a trip on a barge on an underground lake and a miniature railway.
Aire de Repos: Stay in a traditional Chambre d'Hôte - the French for farmhouse B&B. A la ferme du Hameau de Pau (73, Avenue Copernic; 05 59 84 36 85; www.lafermeduhameaudepau.fr.st) offers a simple, attractive rooms in an old farmhouse. The website www.gites-de-france-64.com has details of many more.

Bayonne - Stage 16 - July 23rd
The Basque influence is evident in this unspoilt old town with its narrow streets and tall timber-framed green and red-painted houses.
Plat du jour: Bayonne ham is world famous. It's smoked and dry-cured to a time-honoured recipe. It's an integral part of the Basque staple piperade (scrambled eggs, peppers and ham).
Petit Detour: If you fancy a dip pedal down towards Biarritz then make a left to St Jean De Luz with its sandy bay and magnificent old quarter.
Aire de Repos: Stay in Ciboure close to St Jean De Luz at Lehen Tokia (that's Basque for 'first house) - a quirky, attractive seaside guesthouse. (Chemin Achotarreta; 05 59 47 18 16) with good golf courses and the beach close by.

Dax- Stage 17 - July 24th
If the old leg muscles are playing up, Dax is the place to stop - it's a major centre for the treatment of muscle injuries.
Plat du jour: Spread some local foie gras or confit on your baguette, then chase it down with an old Tour favourite - a slug of Armagnac. Another Dax delicacy is Civelles (baby eels).
Petit Detours: Charge up to the town's arena and you might catch a bullfight. If that's a bit too brutal for you, then watch the crazy Basque wall-ball game, pelota (the ball travels at over 120mph) at the Jaï Alaï. Details from the tourist office in Place Thiers (05 58 56 86 86; www.ville-de-dax.fr)
Aire de Repos: If you want the full mud-and-steam treatment stay at the Grand Hôtel Mercure Splendid (Cours de Verdun; 05.58.56.70.70 www.thermale-france.fr) with its on-site thermal bathes.

Bordeaux - Stage 17 - July 24th
British for 300 years from 1152 to 1453, this is where our love affair with wine began.
Plat du jour: Aside from its wines, seafood is a speciality to savour here. Pick up something very fresh from the fishermen pedalling their wares at one of the guinguettes (snack stalls) along the Quai de Chartons.
Petit Detours: The wine districts lie in a semi-circle around the city, with Medoc in the north, St Emilion to the east and south to Sauternes. Don't assume it's all reds - the region produces many fine whites. St Emillion's remarkable underground church will keep the kids enthralled whilst you do a little quaffing. Lunch at the down-to-earth local owned by Francis Goullee (27 Rue Guadet; Tel: 05 57 24 70 49)
Aire de Repos: If you've overdone the dégustation stay in St Emilion at the pretty Hostellerie de Plaisance ( Place du Clocher; 05 57 55 07 55; www.hostellerie-plaisance.com). Pick up a bottle of their vineyard's fine premier grand cru classé on the way out.

St Maixent l'Ecole - Stage 18 - July 25th
Plat du Jour et Petit Detour: This close to Cognac there's only one thing to sample. Keep your spirits up with a ride to the Hennessy Cognac cellars in Cognac. You can find out about how this fine old eau de vie is made and enjoy a snifter or two.
Aire de Repos: Le Logis St Martin is a bit of a find. A lovely country hotel down a side street. Great cuisine - which even the locals come to sample, attractive rooms with riverside views and sparkling service. (Chemin de Pissot; 05 49 05 58 68; www.logis-saint-martin.com)

Pornic - Stage 19 - July 26th
This is lovely medieval fishing port stands guard over the Bay of Bourgneuf.
Plat du Jour: It's got to be seafood here. Try a Fruits de Mer - a vast plateful of fresh seafood - at one of the old quayside restaurants like the Coeur et Crème (18 Quai Leray 02 40 82 34 98)
Petit Detour: Freewheel round the town, visit the castle and get lost in the maze in the gardens. Take a ride out of town to see the nearby dolmens - ancient stone formations.
Aire de Repos: The pretty Beau Soleil (70 quai Leray; 02.40.82.34.58; www.annedebretagne.com/beausoleil) has rooms with views of the old harbour.

Nantes - Stage 19 - July 26th
Petit Detours et Plat du Jour: Leave the bike and take a short boat cruise along the Erdre Valley. Take in the 20 or so chateaux and manoirs along the way and enjoy a fun lunch aboard a bateaux-restaurant. The kids will like the entertainments too. (Quai de la Motte-Rouge, place Waldeck-Rouseau; Tel: 02 40 14 51 14)
Aire de Repos: L'Hotel (6 Rue Henri-IV; 02 40 29 30 31) is far more than its name would suggest. Right opposite the chateaux, nicely furnished, the perfect place to rest up before tomorrow's big finale.

Recommended Reading
Further information about many of the hotels and restaurants mentioned here can be found in the excellent Charming Small Hotels - France (£11.99) and Charming Restaurants - France (£14.99) both published by Duncan Petersen Publishing. (www.charmingsmallhotels.co.uk)

The new 8th edition of the Rough Guide to France (Pengiun, £14.99; www.roughguides.com) has been completely updated and revised. Trekking in the Pyrenees (£11.99; Trailblazer Guides; www.trailblazer-guides.com) is a useful book for serious trekkers.

© Jeremy Head 2003

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